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CAUTION more than likely your booster is leaking because the fittings have not been attached properly. Leaks are always from external sources such as: Connections to brake system, overfill or spillage. As in the case with many GM’s, the brass block where you have the copper “o” ring is another area to check. Any fluid that leaks from those connects ends up dripping down to the bottom which makes the booster appear as if it is leaking between the master cylinder and the piston. But that is NOT the case. If the booster has been rebuilt, before returning the unit, please follow these simple steps to discover from where the leak is coming.
1) Take a paper towel and wipe the booster dry.
2) Wrap the booster with clean paper towel.
3) Depress the brake a few times.
4) Unwrap the paper towel to see where the fluid is exiting.
If the leak is from the fittings
1) Loosen and retighten the fittings
2) If the issue persists, lightly coat the washers with Permatex 2 (not so much that it gets into the brake fluid, but enough where it will fill in any microscopic pits).
We reuse any parts that are still in good working condition. In the case that we have to replace a part, there is no need to worry since you will NOT be charged an additional fee. It is one way for us to say thank you for doing business with Ed Strain Inc.
The Bendix Treadle Vac has an aluminum master cylinder where as the Delco Moraine booster has a cast iron. For 1959 and up, the two halves of the Bendix vacuum canister are screwed together and is in the shape of a stop sign (octagon) at its outer most perimeter, whereas the Delco Moraine booster is a twist lock and rounded.
Turnaround time is dependent on current workload. Our typical turnaround is approximately 1 week (2-3 if plating is necessary). During “peak” season, turnaround is approx. 2-3 weeks. Call the shop if you need to make any special arrangements. 1.888.266.1623
We rebuild customer supplied units. We do not offer core exchange. This ensures that you receive your booster which is the appropriate fit for your vehicle (some units come in several different variations) and in many cases keeps the factory original parts with the car which is desirable option for most people.
Rebuilding your brake booster depends on how often you drive the car and when the last rebuild took place. The more you drive it the longer the booster and cylinder will last since it prevents moisture build up in the lines and rust particles from eating up the seals. Here is the recommended time frame:
• If you drive the car frequently (weekly or many times a month) then the booster doesn’t need to be rebuilt until 8-10 years.
• If you drive the car infrequently (monthly or seasonally) then the booster will last 6-7 years.
• If you drive the car occasionally (once or twice a year) then the booster might last 4-5 years.
• If you don’t know the last time you rebuilt the booster, chances are it needs to be rebuilt
• If the car has sat for 2 years or longer the complete brake system should be rebuilt including the booster and master cylinder.
• If you are rebuilding the booster it is also recommended that you rebuild the master cylinder at the same time.
The short answer is NO! Save yourself the headache and disappointment! That’s because ALL of today’s brake kits are incomplete. The kits in the 80s could rebuild most of the brake boosters, but these cars are now 20-30 years older. The kits today don’t have enough parts, plus you now have the added issue of pitting which the kits can’t address. It takes expert to repair this issue. In addition, the kits have no parts for the vacuum piston other than a leather seal. We actually have the pistons manufactured. Not only that but we have 9 parts that are NOT available to the public anywhere else so that we can COMPLETELY rebuild any power brake booster we cover. Don’t make the mistake of using a partial kit when we can completely rebuilt your brake booster in 48 hours.
No. We have discovered that the brake boosters are so old now that they need more than just the parts. We used to sell kits but it became such a hassle and upset too many people when it didn’t work that we discontinued them. Most often the boosters need additional repairs and fine tuning that require more than just a kit. Since that time we have had a much higher customer satisfaction rate.
Below is a list of our most popular boosters:
General Motors
• 1955-1962 Buick Moraine/Treadle Vac
• 1955-1962 Chevy Moraine/Treadle Vac
• 1953-1962 Pontiac Moraine/Treadle Vac
• 1952-1961 Cadillac Moraine/Treadle Vac
• 1953-1964 Oldsmobile Moraine/Treadle Vac
Ford
• 1958-1960 Ford Edsel Moraine/Treadle Vac
• 1953-1963 Lincoln/Mercury Bendix
• 1955-1957 T-Bird Midland High Power
Miscellaneous
• 1952-1956 Packard Bendix
• 1955-1959 Nash Hudson Bendix
• 1955-1962 Studebaker Hydro Vac
• 1952-1962 Medium Duty Truck/Limo Hydraulically Activated Midland Unit
• 1950s-1960s Hydro Vacs
Yes, we provide a Lifetime Warranty. Please keep a copy of the invoice that is returned with your order as it is required if warranty service is ever needed.
It depends. The best thing to do is to call us at 1.888.266.1623 so that we can find out more about your car and power brake booster. At that point we can give you a quote and get your car back on the road again.
Absolutely! With over 25 years of experience we should be able to answer almost any question or issue that you may have. Call the shop at 1.888.266.1623.
The vacuum systems come in 3 generations. The early generation is a slide valve. Once those leak there is really nothing you can do with them. The second generation is a poppet valve. Those you can rebuild indefinitely. And the third generation is like a single poppet valve and those are infinitely rebuildable if you have the pieces to rebuild them with, however, there are NO kits that have these pieces.
We have 9 parts that are not available anywhere else:
1. Treadle Vac standard shaft.
2. Treadle Vac nut which is in the reservoir.
3. Treadle Vac piston ring
4. Moraine standard shaft
5. Moraine ’56 Buick shaft.
6. Fill cap
7. Chevy shaft made.
8. Pistons for the rolling diaphragm Moraine
9. Pistons made for a variety of hydro vacs
2. Fill the booster with the proper brake fluid and let sit for at least 5 minutes to allow the fluid to travel.
3. Plug the brake lines (use plugs, old brake lines that you have crimped, or even your thumbs) once you see them oozing.
4. Fill the booster with additional fluid to top it off
5. Unplug the booster and depress the plunger/rod
6. Replug the brake lines.
7. Return plunger/rod to rest position
8. Repeat Steps 5-7 a few more times until plunger/rod no longer moves.
9. With the lines plugged you may now install the unit and bleed the whole system.
2. You can lessen the amount of vacuum assistance to the booster by clamping the 3/8″ ID hose slightly to reduce the vacuum.Keep in mind that for option 2 there is a fine line between the perfect amount of vacuum and NO vacuum at all so be careful.